Wine world (TerraVina) may seem like another television series about sentient robots, but it is actually about a hotel at the center of the Chilean red wine universe – better known as the Colchagua Valley. I’ll be the first to admit that for me the bold reds of Chile are its real strength.And Colchagua is the source of those bold reds. Near perfect soils protected by mountain ranges on two sides that benefit from both the cool Pacific and high Andes winds, hot sunny summer days and a group of winemakers who have figured out the formula are the key ingredients of this successful transformation. TerraVina sits in Santa Cruz and is a short drive from the major producers.Thus it has become a rallying point for those interested in learning more,first hand, about what makes Colchagua reds so special in the pantheon of red wines.
The hotel sits in a vineyard. The first time we visited in 2015 it was just a small hotel without a restaurant, but a pleasant staff. On our 2018 visit, they have added Restaurante Los Poetas. We did not eat at Los Poetas except for breakfast, which was an ample buffet with made to order eggs. Reports are that the restaurant is good, however, on our second night we visited Vino Bella instead. This neighboring restaurant is reached by walking out the back of TerraVina and following a dirt road to another that eventually leads you to a sign at the end of a row of vines taking you to the back terrace of the restaurant. This is easy enough to follow in the day light hours, but if you return after dark, as we did, a flashlight and a reasonably good memory are essential if you wish to not spend the night in the vineyard.
Vino Bella is owned by an American woman who married a Chilean who loves Italy. A good combination in this instance as the meal was very good. I had short ribs with Gnocchi and my spouse had the cannelloni with walnut sauce on top and a red sauce on top of a bed of spinach below the cannelloni rolls. Both were flavorful and more than ample for the appetites of those who have been sampling wines all day. Dessert consisted of a brownie and chocolate ice cream with warm caramel sauce. Much too decadent for an Italian dessert, but somehow they disappeared into the night even before we ventured back into the dark vineyard in our quest to find TerraVina. We accompanied the meal with a 2015 Laura Hartwig Carmenere which was pleasant with the meal. Since the vineyards surrounding the restaurant and hotel are owned by the Laura Hartwig winery it should have been no surprise the staff recommended this wine. On a previous trip we had tasted and purchased the Laura Hartwig Petite Verdot and Laura Incon wine which has a high percentage of Petite Verdot in the basic Cabernet blend. On our visit one of our waitresses was Jennie, who was training for the US Olympic Marathon trials for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. We hope Jennie makes the team and does her country proud, having significantly improved her Spanish and learning new skills in this small Chilean restaurant.
Earlier in the day we had lunch at El Fuego at the Montes winery. This modernistic structure is a fascinating place to eat given the glass walls that reveal the kitchen at the center of this dining experience. Rustic wood floors complements the steel and glass walls both interior and exterior. The attentive staff served us promptly although there was a mixup on one meal that ultimately got sent back, not because of the preparation or execution, but because of a health issue that precluded a member of our party from eating uncooked fish that was labeled as ‘fresh’ on the menu. The rest of our party had scallops that were presented nicely and proved both crisp and tender. The pork tenderloin as reported to be excellent and somehow none survived the ritual cleaning of the plate.
We started this day at Clos Apalta winery. This tour,although it was the second time we took it, never disappoints. Just understanding what the La Postolle family does to produce world class wines is amazing. It is clear that no investment has been spared in the structure of the winery or the wine. In 2005 Wine Spectator declared the Clos Apalta wine to be the number one rated wine. Tasting it and comparing it to the other Icon wines of Colchagua shows it to be among the very best of what Colchagua has to offer. It was also interesting to learn that while every major winery in Chile lost a substantial part of its 2010 production in the devastating earthquake that occurred that year, Clos Apalta lost a single bottle because of the way it was carved out of a solid granite outcrop. Clos Apalta is a must stop for anyone who visits the Colchagua Valley and it is a must purchase for anyone who likes a solid Chilean red blend.
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