Playing Games with a Geisha

We attended a Geisha performance arranged through Japan Awaits (www.japanawaits.com). We were served a full meal including sake, which will become important when we discuss the performance.  We learned that Geisha translates into ‘performing artist’.  The first Geishas were men, who performed at formal occasions starting in the 1700s. They were soon replaced by women who were better at the range of performance skills which includes dancing to music played by traditional instruments, initiating games and being well-versed in any topic of conversation.  Geishas gained in popularity until the late 1920s when there were thought to be over 80,000 full time performers. However, their popularity began to wane, accelerating as a result of the number of Geisha districts destroyed by bombing during the Second World War. Today it is estimated that less than 1,000 performers make their living as Geisha.

Geisha Dancing

The evening began with the service of the meal. An interpreter, Tsugue Naka (Tsugue@japanawaits.com) joined us and began to explain what we were about to participate in. Shortly thereafter Yukimi, our Geisha for the evening joined us. We were instructed to address her as Yukimioneesan. As we ate our meal we engaged in a pleasant conversation with Yukimioneesan about many things including the history of Geisha, Japanese baseball players, her nieces, the training for Geishas, face painting and wigs, and kimono construction. We learned that in formal ceremonies such as these there are several rules:

1. Pour drinks for others
2. To toast, say ‘‘Kampai’.
3. Before eating, say “Itadakimasu” which means, “I gratefully receive.”
4. Please pick up your bowl when eating from a small bowl and bring it to your mouth.
5. Return all dishes to their original positions to include returning lids to soup and rice bowls.
6. Receive business cards with two hands
7. At the end of the meal say “Gochisousama” which means ‘Thank you for the feast’.

After about an hour of conversation, Yukimioneesan left the room to prepare for our entertainment. She returned with a drum and iphone with portable speaker. She played traditional music on the iphone while she played a small drum. After several songs, she put the drum away and performed several traditional dances. The dances were performed with long practiced subtle movements that express restraint and precision. We learned that she was required to serve a two-year apprenticeship to learn her skills and hone her talents and even after twenty years of experience, she is still required to take lessons every year.

Geisha Drumming

She concluded the evening’s entertainment by playing what seemed like simple games, however, the loser was required to chug a small amount of sake. It was clear after several games that she was expert at avoiding having to chug the sake. In fact, Yukimioneesan preferred beer and did chug a glass for us as consolation. The evening ended with pictures of us with her, and with us performing both the drumming and dancing.

Geisha Winning at Rock, Scissors, Paper Game

It was clear why Geisha entertainment has declined in an era of instant and persistent access to a wide range of entertainment on a cell phone. However, Geisha is a traditional art form which requires hard work, persistence and perfection for the artists to master it in all its forms.